Friday, February 29, 2008

Oh, Ghana

The reality of living here is now finally sinking in. The first few weeks felt like vacation, and now I am beginning to refer to Volta Hall, where I am staying, as home. The vast differences I found between Ghana and the US are beginning to simply fade away in the daily routines I am becoming accustomed to. Walking down the stairs still sleepy to fill my bucket up so I can use the bathroom, after being awoken by a woman yelling "fresh bread" is now second nature. The heat, the extreme heat, it is still here, but I mention it less and learn to adapt my schedule to the swell in the middle of the day. I've learned that if you can remain still between the hours of noon and 2:30, you will last an entire day. Thus, new friends and I have found ways to entertain, eating for hours, having tea time, laying in bed reading and so on. See, at this point back home I would add a comment about how lazy I feel, but I do not feel propelled to do so for in Ghana, a certain stillness is just a way of life. This stillness I describe here is still something I have not mastered though. And the random details of life that I add to my daily agenda keep me running around. Trips to the market seem frequent and exhausting, and for the second weekend in a row I will be departing Accra again. I'm sure though by the end of my time here, I will master the art of passing time with the simple pleasures of life I enjoy, a good conversation, a cup of tea and a powerful fan.
There is something to be said about being placed outside your comfort zone. Back home I am not used to such intense eye contact. It can be alarming when I am being stared down by an unfamiliar face, but am beginning to understand that such form of staring are simply a way in which people connect here. I have heard stories from other students of them returning to the US and receiving dirty looks from the passer by or signs of uncomfort from their friends because unknowingly their eyes were locked on the person in question. I have been told time and time again that looking someone in the eyes and greeting them is a sign that you recognize their humanity. Thus, I am the freak that has been walking around campus shouting "hi," "hello," "ete sen" to every passer by. I feel that it is the experiences I will encounter outside my comfort zone that will encourage me to grow the most. It is easy back home to be so singular. But I find it nearly impossible to be invisible here, in a place that values community above most everything else. So, no longer can I just be a passive observer of life, but I am here to join in, to be apart of something, even if I am not clear what that is yet. I am not rushed getting involved in anything yet. For now, I am showing up to classes, studying Twi, passing time with new friends, and getting to know this place I call home.

For those who are very excited for pictures, I have some good news for you. My friend Natalia here has been able to upload some photos. Her blog address is http://babygotbaccra.blogspot.com/. I am still working on mine, and have learned that I must upload them at a smaller size to add them to my blog, which is eventually my goal. For now, I am loading some to photobucket, and I will post the link. However, after looking at some of Natalia's, I am a bit embarrassed as she is one amazing photographer!

Love you all!

Sunday, February 24, 2008

What Does Not Kill You Makes You Stronger?

So I have just returned from my little trip this weekend. Well, not just returned, I spent about an hour in the shower trying to scrub the dirt from my day in the rain forest off, and i think it is here to stay.
By last Wednesday, not a one of my near dozen classes I was sampling had started, so my roommate, two other girl friends and I headed out Thursday morning for a weekend of adventure up the coast. We decided not to waste another minute waiting for classes that just would not be happening, so we returned to Cape Coast, the place we had visited the previous week. We all had not felt satisfied with our day trip there, and wanted to spend more time in the area. Also, we had found out about this village on the boarder of the rainforest, about two hours from Cape Coast that welcomes a small number of tourist to stay in their village, learn about their lifestyles, and SLEEP IN A TREE IN THE RAINFOREST!!!
Let me preface the rest of this with the fact that I had an amazing time and would not really change anything, for the experience would have been very different. However, one lesson I have learned after the fact is that when traveling on a whim, you have to expect that things are not going to run smoothly, obviously because not much thought or planning had gone into the trip. So when we arrived at the bus station for our noon bus to Cape Coast, after arguing with several different taxi's to take us to the station for no more than 6 cedi, only to discover that we were at the wrong station, and the next bus from that location would not be until three. We realized that waiting just may be the trend this weekend. But let me tell you, ever since I have been here my threshold for patience has reached an all time high. (And yes parents you did hear me right, patience).
Three short hours after boarding the bus, we arrived in Cape Coast. Of course none of us knew where the hotel was or if there was any vacancies, but this is an adventure right. When is doubt take a taxi, but be careful, some people claim to be taxi drivers when they are far from. It appears we almost fell for such a scheme, but luckily some onlookers warned us not to go with the "taxi" driver that was very pushy. Don't be alarmed, we learned our lesson and now always look for a valid licence plate and such. When we arrived at our hotel, I must admit I was a little worried. Where the cab driver dropped us off was in the middle of just a regular neighborhood street, lined with vendors and stinky gutters, with the hotel perched up the hill a bit. If you are a five star traveler, hotel Sammos may not be for you. However, for four foriegn college with jut a few dollars to their names, it was perfect. Outside appearances are not everything, and this four story old structure was comfortable within. Another lesson learned, flattery can get you practically anywhere in Ghana. Example: We happened to arrive about the same time two other groups of four travelers did as well. Both other parties were very huffy with the manager, who claimed that he never took their reservations. As they were deep in argument, my friends and I were just chatting and laughing, and the next thing we know, he suddenly has the perfect room for us, which he claimed that was no longer available. Everything was smooth, minus the request of the manager for me to take him with me to America and make him my husband. The room was nicer than I thought it would be, it had a fan that was hanging by a thread from the ceiling and our own balcony, perfect for people watching and grooving to the music that was blasting at all hours of the day and night. We had to share a bathroom with the rest on the floor, but this is nothing new to any of us, I mean at least there was running water! And the grand total for our Oasis, was six dollars for two nights. I doubt you could find anything like that in the US.
The next day we spend exploring this relaxed beach town. I felt very much at home in Cape Coast, it reminded me a bit of home and it was such a nice break from the hustle and general dirtiness of Accra. I have now made it my mission to escape from Accra as often as possible! In the morning we ventured out to find a place to eat called Dynasty that we read about in the guide book, and we could not believe it once we found it. It was down the street from the hotel and it was literally a stand with a table to the side covered in lacy curtains, and a woman with one pan and stacks of eggs just waiting to be fried. We just found it so charming that this was listed as a restaurant in the guide book. Let me tell you though, those egg sandwiches were the best I have had yet! We showed the lady that her "restaurant" was in the guide book and her friends fell over with laughter. That may have been a little surreal for them. The rest of the weekend we found many more establishments like that, a Rastafarian vegetarian "restaurant" and a local "bookshop." Each time we would show the owners that they were in the book and they too were so pleased.
The beach in Cape Coast is beautiful, but the waves are very violent. My theory why no one can swim in there because of the dangerous waters is because of the slave castle that is perched above the shore. I believe that all the souls lost there haunt the beaches, and anyone who dare venture out into the water would be dragged off, much like those were decades ago. Okay, maybe this theory is a little out-landish, but it made me feel better knowing I could not go into the water like I would back in San Diego. We were totally content because we played for hours with little children on the beach, many of which were very freaked out by us, but none the less curious. I whipped out my soccer skills for the first time in a while, but those kids were just to fast. That evening we spent at a local hang out, complete with live reggae music and dancing into the wee hours on the beach. It was the perfect relaxing day that we all needed, especially for what was to come.
The next morning we got an early start, hoping to get to the village Mosamogor by early afternoon. After asking people on the streets how to get to the village, be hopped on a tro-tro that was heading to Kakum National Park, the place I had done the canopy walk before. When we arrived 45 minutes later, we were dropped off in front of the same entrance as the canopy walks, figuring we would have to take a taxi from this point. But no, no no no, we were at the complete wrong side of the park. Mosamogor was apparently two hours onto the east side, where no tro tro will take you. So taxi drivers were trying to convince us they would take us there for 80 dollars, which we just laughed in their faces, because most of us don't even have that in our possessions ever. We did not fall for it and were determined to find another way. Our only option was to take a tro tro all the way back to Cape Coast, catch another tro tro to the station on the other side, then take an hour taxi ride up to the village. However we were warned that the next tro tro may be hours. So after waiting on the side of the road for 5 minutes and gorging ourselves on bananas for we had no breakfast, I hear the engine of some beat up car coming our way, realizing this belonged to that of a tro tro, we jumped into the road, flagged it down and the next thing we knew we were heading back to Cape Coast. Then we caught another taxi to the Asain Kumasi station(spelled wrong for sure so do not quote me). When we got off we were literally swarmed by people and taxi drivers practically playing tug-of-war with us. Once we agreed on a low price with one, the whole crowed of people began cracking up. We could not understand why they were laughing at us until we saw the taxi we were to take. It was being held together by tape, with a windshield super glued so that the cracks will stay together, so old that it could hardly run. Yes, everyone was laughing because this was the taxi that was to take us to a village an hour away, on the worst windy dirt roads you could imagine.
Luckily we arrived in one piece. We were greeted by some of the villagers, welcoming us to their town. We had a couple hours to kill before we were to head out into the forest, so Stevo, as we were told to call him, took it upon himself to take us about town. We saw how they harvest the coaco and the palms they grew on their farms, sampling some of their goods. We met some town elders and children galore. The kids followed us everywhere, we felt like we had a posse. A few of them were scared of us though, and Elizabeth, a fourteen year old girl from the village, explained to us it is because they thought we were ghosts because of our white skin. It was quite an interesting interaction! Also, the town laughed as they watch us learn to pump water from the well. We were all a little worried about drinking the water, because we had been warned specifically not to, but we had no other choice. Oh, and guess what Melissa, we saw a monkey!! I got a picture just for you. We rested after we ate some food prepared for us by some local women. We needed that rest, for at three we departed into the rainforest.
It took us one hour to walk to the boarder of the rainforest, through all the farms and a another village, before we made it to the edge of the rainforest. Once there it took about another hour to hike to the tree where we would spend the night. Mind you these are four California girls hiking into the rainforest, in shorts and flip-flops, with a man with a gun and another with a machete, so the night could have taken us anywhere. Once we stepped into the rainforest, the change in environment was so dramatic. You could not see the sky because it was blocked by all the trees. I was tripping every other step over all the foliage and vines that grow wild. I have never seen so much green in my life. Also, I have never seen or heard so many bugs in my life, complete with massive spiders! Along the walk my legs felt very itchy. I simply figured that it was because I was wearing long pants for the first time in a while and I must be hot. But the itches got worse and I was in pain. Yeah, I was not just hot, there were ants in my pants, and I totally did the bogey dance. I am still covered in big red bumps from those little #%@^*%$! Finally we got to the tree platform, which consisted of a wooden platform 30 feet in the air, on which we were to sleep. We climbed the longest latter I have ever seen and curled into the fetal position at the top as it began to get dark. There were bugs everywhere and six of us were us on this SMALL platform in a tree in the rainforest. On top of everything, us four idiots forgot our mosquito nets, so we were fair game for every king of crawling thing. Needless to say, we did not sleep, but were kept awake by all the noises of the forest. We could hear all kinds of bugs, birds and monkeys (to bad it was pitch black so we could not see any of them.) The next morning we rose at dawn and headed out of the forest, kind of in once peace, and all of us had never been so happy to get back into a falling apart, broken down taxi. Don't get me wrong, the rainforest was an experience of a lifetime, and I enjoyed it all!!! I just wish I was a little more prepared is all. We wanted an adventure and we definitely got it! I will cherish that experience forever, reminding myself when things get tough, "I slept in the rainforestt, I can do this."
The adventure didn't end there. When we got back to the STC bus station in Cape Coast, after taking baths in the sink in the restroom, we discovered that all buses were booked full. We did not realize you had to book your ticket back on the same day you arrived. So while we thought we were going to be stranded another night and miss Monday classes, we heard across the way a tro tro driver yelling Accra Accra Accra!!!! Yes, we took a cramped tro tro all the way back to Accra, one of the biggest no no's from the study abroad center. But hey, we got back. So again, note to self: what does not kill you makes you stronger. Or at least exhausted!

Monday, February 18, 2008

When They Say Classes Start Monday, They Are Just Kidding

For the past few days I have been diligently signing up for classes, running errands and trying to upload photos for the 50th time. However, in Ghana, I have realized that any goal or timeframe you set for yourself a joke. So, needless to say, I have not been meeting any goals. Although, I bought a fan the other day, my biggest splurge other than Malaria pills yet, and let me tell you it is worth every pesoa (penny). For the first time since I have been here I have been able to sleep! And then my neighbors moved in, and I am back to square one, so next investment, more earplugs!
One of my biggest adventures over the weekend was a trip to the Medina market about 15 mins from Legon. I reiterate, if smells could kill, well I would die a terrible death! I had a friend with me that literaly couldn't stomach the market to the point she got sick and had to turn back. The market is like any outdoor market or street fair you have been to, but on crack! There is everything you could possible imagine for sale, and all prices are negoiable. I learned this latter when buying soap for a dollar when really it was five cents. Needless to say I had hours to practice my bargaining skills. I discovered that the only trick that works for me is humor, I just laugh a lot instead of argue, act confused and walk away, and they come running after me with plantain chips for the price I asked for. I spent so much time there, getting lost in the crowed and talking to everyone that grabbed at my skirt and shouted Obruni. I have to say I learned a lot, like where the most amazing fabric is ever. I turned a corner and there is just rows and rows of these little stands that are displaying all this colorful and vibrant fabric. The seamstresses just stand by and will make anything you want for under five dollars. So far I have a skirt and a dress being made to fit exactly me. So if anyones interested, send me your measurements and I'll get you something pretty made. Despite the stress and some of the harassment you experience at the market, I managed to really get to talk to some local Ghanaians that share a love for their country and a strong desire to make me feel welcome.
So, now today is monday and I had my first day of classes. Being excited to learn like any true nerd, I woke up hours earlier then my 930 am class, getting all ready, buying school supplies, and stopping buy my favorite "egg lady" (she makes the best egg sandwiches on campus). I get to class early to discover later that the professor wont be around for another week or two. Huh, you mean class doesn't start for another week or two? Well, the truth is no one has a clue around here, you just show up and hope for the best. Later I discovered this is a trend, considering my history class, drumming class and dance class are all just not happening. So what do I do with myself, who knows! Stay tuned, because if things continue like this for a few more days, my roommate and I are out of here and off on some adventure. Don't worry dad, I'll be taking my Malaria pills.
(I have tried three different ways of uploading photos, and I have another two ideas, so keep yours fingers crossed this is going to happen. And if not, well then I better get better and description in my blog!)

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Happy Valentines Day!!!

{I forgot to tell you all about one of my favorite experiences of my world tour in my entry yesterday. I guess I just had to much ground to cover! So on the road from Kumasi to Tamale, we stopped half way through (because it is a six hour drive) at Kintampo. In Kintampo is the largest waterfall in Ghana, and let me tell you, it was gorgeous!!!!! I was simply taking in its beauty and grandeur when suddenly I just could not resist any longer going in. I had no bathing suit, and sorry mother, but unacceptable undergarments for swimming in front of the whole group, so I just took off into the waterfall, long pants and all. It was glorious!!!! We were all climbing this beautiful waterfall, falling and eating it several times and best of all escape the HEAT. I felt like I was five again, and that felt gooood. However, then we had another four hours on the bus before our next stop and no change of clothes, so I had a brilliant idea to dry my clothes out the window, while on a crowded bus, surrounded by 28 other people, in the middle of rural Africa. Needless to say I turned some heads.}

Yesterday, Feb. 13th, we took our last day trip before the start of school the coast of Ghana to Cape Coast and Kakum Rainforest. Cape Coast is vastly different from Accra, which is also a coastal city. For one, it is absolutely beautiful; you are transported from the metropolis, to the Island-ish life. Palm trees and fishing boats are everywhere. In Cape Coast there are two castles, one built by the British and the other built by the Portuguese, where more than 12 million slaves each were transported through. They were collected from throughout West Africa, forced to walk for weeks to Cape Coast, chained up in dungeons at the castle, where they then waited another three weeks to be shipped of to the Americas and the Caribbean. These castles are yet just another intense reminder of the horror that was the slave trade. I have never seen 28 Californians so quiet before in my life. Although seeing such relics of past injustices is difficult, I find it so essential to understanding much of the pain the West has put Africa through. Of course I will never understand it…

Something I have realized during my short time here so far is that there is always some antithesis to despair, always a lighter note lurking around the next corner. After we toured the Cape Coast and Elmina Castles, we took a side trip out to Kakum Rainforest. The terrain obviously changed drastically, from breezy palms and sandy shores, to dense trees everywhere. Also, it was so loud! Every bug in the universe must have congregated there. So in this particular rainforest, there are Ghana’s famous canopy walks. This consisted of a plank with rope on each side, 100 FEET UP IN THE AIR. You are literally walking on the tops of trees (of course ignoring the cracks and creeks in the boards you are scrambling across). I felt a huge sense of pride up there because not did I hike up to the base, and glide through the sky, I still had malaria! So sorry if this is me bragging, but come on, don’t I deserve a little credit? I’ve sat on a crocodile, walked 100 feet in the air, and got malaria…so I am pretty tough right? Probably not, for the next day when we had to sign up for classes, I wanted to crawl under a rock and stay there. Administration in Ghana is so much different from the US. Back home I would have sat down at a computer and pressed a button and be registered for my classes. Here you have walk to each department individually, view the classes offered and when times conflict, and sign up in person with a passport photo. Except, huh, the African studies department just wasn’t ready to post classes, come next week, when classes start! Or sign up for a history class, but we don’t know what day of the week it is yet. So, to say the least, everything is a little stressful, but I should be able to survive (at least this is the mantra I keep repeating to myself). I start classes on Monday, and so far I am hoping to take Introduction to Twi (the main language in Accra), Traditional African Dance, Sociology of Culture in Africa, History of Ghana, and Islam in Modern Ghana. However, with this system here, I’ll take what I can get.

I’ve been reminded to post my address which is:

University of Ghana
UC-EAP
P.O. Box LG 356
Legon, Accra, Ghana
West Africa
And my phone number is 011 233 206 538895. The best way to go if you want to call me is to buy a calling card, you can get them really cheap, and just call me knowing I am 8 hours ahead. I normally get up at 7am (so like 11pm your time) and go to bed like at 12pm (so like 4pm your time) so anywhere in between those two times is just fine. Please call, or email (asernst@gmail.com), or send mail. I miss home and all of you! Also, comment on my blog and let me know if I am doing something to annoy you. Oh, and I know you want photos, NEXT STEP I promise!! (But don’t get your hopes up because I have been surprisingly not snap happy).

Love ali

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Malaria

So, it is my first day back from my whirlwind tour of Ghana. Litterally we attemtped to see practically the entire contry in five days. Now, as my tittle may forshadow, many "interesting" things happened to me on this journey. So, listen up, because here comes the good, the bad, and the malaria.
We departed at 6am, so Ghana time 7am, on Thurday morning. Our destination was Kumasi, the cultural capital of the Asante nation. Kumasi is a hub for African art and tradition, or so my guide book told me (thanks again Melissa, the book has been a lifesaver, litterally). However, an two hours after departer, our nice chartered bus broke down. Our poor little bus driver had to venture out into the scourching heat probably a dozen times, to fix the engine, the would break down five miles latter. So, they had another bus come and pick us up, tacking on another three hours to the trip, and this bus was less than half the size. But hey, this is Africa, we were happy to have a bus and have this amazing opprotunity, so no one cared, or at least no one admitted they did. Because such delays, we did not get to see much of Kumasi, especially because the game between Ghana and Camaroon was on, which Ghana unfotuanatly lost. I have never seen a whole nation at once be so sad! However, on that never ending journey, we saw some of the most beautiful landscape. Ghana in the southern region is very tropical, however, in Accra you don't get to see that because it is such a crowded city. But on the drive, about an hour outside Accra, there was just tree after tree after tree. In the distance there was mountains that you could just see covered in rainforest. It was gorgous! Also, the further we got away from Kumasi, the more rural it got, transforming from large city, to small suburbs, to villages, complete with mud huts and thatched roofs. I am not saying any of this to reienforce any stereotypes of Africa, because let me tell you, over 85% of what you (and I) may think of Africa or Ghana, just isn't so. Rather I mention them because it was so interesting how stark in contrast rural Africa is to city Africa, it feels almost like two different worlds. I have to address this again later, when I have better words to decribe, and I'm not tripping off my Malaria drugs.

The next day we departed for Tamale, which is about another 6 hours north of Kumasi. Tamale has been by far my favorite region of Ghana. It is completely different than the south. First of all, the humidity is completely gone, and then it is just plain Las Vegas, 106 degrees of hotness. Also, Tamale is about 80% muslim. As your driving along the streets in Tamale, if you time it at the right point during the day, the streets are ligned with people praying to Mecca. The fabrics here are also beautiful, and a couple friends and I ventured out to find some, unsuccessfully. Instead we found ourselves greeted by all kinds of people, one of which, Mustaph we talked to forever as if we are old friends. He allowed me to ask a lot of questions that I thought may be difficult for him to talk about, especially about the Muslim culture. In Tamale, those who are not Muslim are Catholic (we stayed in a Catholic hotel), and there is absolutely no tension or anomosity between the two faiths. I found this so strange, because I feel in the US we are made to believe that such forms of coexistence or not natural. I found this suprisingly refreshing and fell in love with Tamale, something I would have to remind myself for the next few days...
The following day I woke up and my sore throat and cough had gotton worse from the day before. I thought nothing of it, assuming I was still adjusting to the weather, boy was I wrong. Still, I put it aside and new I had to power through, because today we were going to Bolgatonga, where relics of a slave market remains. The tour there was intense, the slaves were brought there from all over WEst Africa, and were bought and traded like cattle. I'll never forget the image of this ten year old boy demonstrating for me how the slaves were tortured. It makes you wonder how a human could do this to another human. As Sam, a Professor from Legon would say, the only possible answer is that they would just simply have to be less than human.
After Bolgatonga, we headed to Paga, which is litterally at the boarder of Burkina Faso, meaning we had litterally now traveled the entire length of Ghana. And if this sounds exhausting, let me tell you, it definetly was! BUT it was all worth it because waiting for us in Paga was a crocidile lake. I will consider this section of my blog as an ode to Steve Irwin, because as much as I may secretly dream to, I could never do what he did. I ventured down to the edge of the lake in disbelief, because yet there were full on huge, man chomping crocidiles. The men that work at this lake were holding live chickens in their hands, enticing the crocs out of the water. Then they proceded to ensure us that they are harmless, and look you can pet them. The next thing I know I am sitting on the back of a croc, with no one holding him down, just the pure desire for chicken keeping him distacted. I have the picture to prove it for those who doubt me! So, basically, I can cross that of my list of things to do before I die.
On the road back from Paga, I my cold started getting worse, and I began to feel feverish. However, I was thinking, who gets a cold in Africa when it is over 106 degrees outside. However, by the time we arrived in Kumasi, it was apparrent, I was really sick. I could not pull myself out of bed, I was shivering and sweating buckets at the same time. Of course dumb me tells myself and everyone concerned, let me just wait one more day, this will pass. Of course the next day, I spent in the Kumasi "hospital," where after spending less than a minute with a doctor, I was informed I had malaria. The drugs I got there did not do much, so after another five hours on the bus, I went to the hospital in Accra, one of the nicest in Accra thanks to the diligent research of my Malaria buddy Theo's parents (he had Malaria before we even left for the trip and the drugs had not helped.) There we found out that the drugs the other "hospitals" had given us would have done nothing for us and he was shocked they were given to us! So I got blood test and the cadillac of Malaria drugs, and then was sent the bill and the exact moment I realized I did not have any money, and credit cards are not an option in Ghana. So thus bus driver lent me 50 dollars so that I could live.....It appears I am dragging this on, but I just cannot believe I got malaria in the second week in Ghana. Before I left it was totally a joke, like hey don't get malaria when your in Africa, hahaha. No, not so funny now. One things throughout the whole expierience was that I furthur realized how luck we all are in the US. Malaria is the biggest killer in Ghana, not because it is not treatable, but because those who cannot afford to go to the hospital, or the hospitals that are not well equiped, just have no options. Being here makes me sooooo much more apprechiative of all I have, all my family has provided me, all the opprotunities people have in the US, even though it may be increably flawed. I could go on and on about my emotions surrounding this ordeal, but let me spare you. The first part of my trip was wonderful, and the last part will one day be memorable, but hey, at least I don't ever have to donate blood again!

Love ali

(Once again I forgot to bring my address and tele number with me to the computer lab, so, email my dad (mernst1@san.rr.com) if you need either soon, but otherwise, let's see if I can get it up tomorrow, malaria permitting.)

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

OBURONI

So two entries in two days, I must say I am on quite a roll! Something I omitted from my last entry is that we are currently and for the next two weeks participating in an orientation. I have to say that I would be completely lost without this help. Some Ghanaian students have basically been our guides, friends and mothers and fathers, because we would be completely lost without them. They are the kindest people I have met. For example Nii, a student in Legon, gave up his ticket to the HUGE futball match on sunday so that we could go, even though this is his country and his team. So I am really indebted to them all, Nii, Angie, Irene, Elizabeth and many more. But, because this is a very busy orientation, my blog will be minimal, especially after Thursday because we leave for Kumasi and Tamale in Northen Ghana. I am so thrilled as we are the first group to have been able to visit the north! I've heard Northern Ghana is very different from Accra, so I can't wait and when I get back, once I figure out registration, I will tell you all about it.
So, to fill you all in, and forgive me because I cannot remember where I have let off, but every night we have been having African music and Dance lessons, mind you in 90 degree heat. Despite the fact that I have seen people, including myself sweatier then I have ever witnessed in my life, this has been soooooo much fun. I have learned so much, and I think I am convinced that I will take an African Dance class now. I'll have to show you all my stuff when I get back.
On Saturday, we ventured into Accra, and let me tell you this was a very heavy expierience. First we were viewing some historical monuements, including St. James Fort, a British fort on the Ivory Coast. Seeing this was a huge reminder of Ghana's colonial past, and it is insane for me to think that they only obtained their independence by 1957! Reminence of their colonial past are everywhere, from various Euro-style churches to banks to the language. This has been really difficult for me and others to process, we feel guilty for such abuse of western power, even through we do not carry the fault of their past, we sort of remind people of such struggles. Also, it was very rough whitnessing all the contradictions within Accra. For example, driving through one street in Accra, on one side of the road was the Royal Palm Hotel and the other was something akin to a shanty town, complete with horrible living conditions and sewage just dumped in the streets. So, obviously we are all trying to process the living conditions here, the injustices, and just figure out how and where we fit into the whole scheme of things.
Later that day, we also went to Accra's old port, where we were surrounded by children and locals currious about all of us obruni's (white people) were doing there, where most opted to take their "children in Africa picture" I was astounded by the Ocean shore that was covered wholey by waste, wondering if this could ever happed in the US. Despite conditions, I do not pitty anyone because they do not pitty themselves. Every single Ghanaian I have met is in love with their country and desire a better future, by their own hands. So far, when not in the context of economic transactions, I have met some of the kindest people here. Southern hospitallity has NOTHING on Ghana!
Moving ON. Sunday was the best day yet. Also, just for your frame of reference, each day litterally feels like three shoved into one. They start at around 630am and end well after 12am for me. Sunday was no exception. For the first half of the day, most people attended church. I opted not to go because church services are notoriously two hours to many more, and some of my new friends to me to a hang out on campus called Bonjour, to celebrate my 21st birthday. I do intend to go in the name of cultural explorations, because Ghana is the MOST religious society I have ever encountered. Everything in the County has to do with religion. For example, I saw a "Jesus Loves Me Hair Salon" and a "God Is Great Phone Shop" in La. Ghana is truly a trip! After those returned from church, we ventured out to the beach by that five star hotel I mentioned. It was stange because it was like a different world, clean and white, and let me tell you, the whole fake front it put on was not likeable at all. I perfer real Ghana much more. But from the beach we went to the Ghana vs. Nigeria futboll match. This was a semi-final match in the African cup, and let me tell you if you don't already know this was a HUGE deal. This was the event of the decade for Ghana because they were playing their rivals on their home turf, and we got to be apart of it! The crowd was insane, the largest I have ever seen at any sporting event, which was fun because the energy was insane but it was equally as intimidating as we stood out in a crowed of tens of thousands of Ghanians. We sat at the top level, and I got some insane photos of the event that I will certainly be sharing once I figure that process out. Of course Ghana won, two to one, strangley as many Ghanaians predicted. And when they did, they took their celebration to the streets and so did we. Standing outside the stadium we were surrounded in celebration with Ghanaians, taking pictures of us, because I guess we were some sight to see, in all of our yellow, green and red get-up. I also find it humerous that we were at this big game when in the US the super bowl must have been on several people's agendas. We all had the best time there, and we walked out in some sort of euphoric state, not really believing what we just whitnessed. Sorry if I am dwelling on this expierience, but it was certainly one for the records books!!!!
So, I must be off for I have launry I need to do, and hearing from others it is apparently a whole ordeal. As always I miss you and love you. I hope I can create better structure in my blog entries in the future so I am not jumping all over the place. and PLEASE email me and keep me up on everything!

-Ali (aka world traveler!)

Now, note to dad, yes I did recieve my luggage, I was able to pick it up on my fourth time to the airport sunday morning. So do not worry, although I do wish I had packed more DEET because I am going through it so quickly!!!! Also, I will post my mailing address tomorrow!

Monday, February 4, 2008

I HAVE ARRIVED

SO, OBVIOUSLY STAYING IN TOUCH HAS BEEN AN ISSUE FOR ME, AS EVIDENT FROM WRITING IN ALL CAPITALS, IN WHICH THE COMPUTER IS STUCK, OBVIOUSLY AMENITIES ARE NOT UP TO OUR STANDARDS. . HOWEVER, I HAVE BEEN DYING TO SHARE WITH EVERYONE WHAT I HAVE BEEN EXPIERIENCING! SO HERE’S WHAT’S GOING TO BE MY FIRST BLOG ENTRY, AND IT WILL NOT BE LENGTHY SEEING AS HOW I HAVE TEN MINUTES LEFT AT THE INTERNET CAFE!

GETTING OFF THE PLANE JANUARY 31 AFTER 23 HOURS OF TRAVELING AND NOT A MOMENT OF SLEEP, I CHOKED. I CHOKED BECAUSE THE AIR WAS SO THICK YOU COULD EAT IT. MY SENSES WHERE SHOCKED AS I WAS GREETED WITH MY FIRST SIGHTS, SOUNDS AND SMELLS OF GHANA. AND LET ME TELL YOU, IF SMELLS COULD KILL, I WOULD BE DEAD BY NOW. ARRIVING, STEPPING OFF THE PLANE, WAS ONE OF THE MOST LIBERATING AND JOYOUS OCCASSIONS I KNOW TO THIS DATE. IT’S THE FEELING YOU GET WHEN A DREAM HAS FINALLY COME TRUE. I HAVE ARRIVED! HOWEVER, ALSO ARRIVING SHORTLY AFTER WAS MY LESSON IN PATIENTS, FOR MY AIRPORT EXPIERIENCE WAS NOT PERFECT. AFTER GREETING ALL THE PEOPLE I WOULD BE SPENDING THE NEXT FEW MONTHS WITH, I REALIZED I WAS LAST LEFT STANDING WAITING FOR MY BAGS AS OTHERS DRAGED THEIRS AWAY. SO, MY LUGGAGE HAD NOT ARRIVED, AND LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING I LEARNED THAT DAY ABOUT GHANAIAN CULTURE, TIME IS TOTALLY RELATIVE. SO WHEN I ASKED, WHEN WILL MY BAGS ARRIVE? ANSWER: MAYBE TWO HOURS OR FIVE DAYS, I DON’T KNOW JUST COME BACK. SO, I LIVED FOR THE FIRST BIT OFF THE GENEROSITY OF OTHERS. OF COURSE THAT NIGHT WE ALL JUST CRASHED BECAUSE OF OUR 23 HOUR JOURNEY. I FINALLY DOSED OFF BY 12AM TO BE AWOKEN AT 2AM BY THE SOUNDS OF BIRDS. NOW BRIDS HERE ARE UNLIKE ANYTHING I'VE EVERY HEARD, THEY LITTERALLY SING. SO THAT NIGHT I DID NOT SLEEP, MAKEING FRIDAY VERY INTERESTING.
THE NEXT DAY I TURNED 21, WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF STRANGERS, IN A DIFFERENT CONTINENT, WITH NO CHANGE OF CLOTHES OR MISQUITO REPELLENT. BUT LET ME TELL YOU THIS WILL BE THE MOST INTERESTING BIRTHDAY OF MY LIFE. MOST OF WHICH I SPENT IN THE AIRPORT WAITING TO RETRIEVE MY LUGGAGE FOR HOURS TO DISCOVER IT WAS NOT YET THERE. FRIDAY ALSO CONSISTED OF "LECTURE" OR ALMOST LIKE CULTURAL TRAINING TO HELP US ASSIMULATE INTO GHANAIAN LIFE. NOW THESE WOULD NORMALLY BE RIGHT UP MY ALLY (NO PUN INTENDED), BUT THE HEAT HAS BEEN TAKING MUCH MORE ADJUSTING TO THEN I EVER EXPECTED. IT IS CURRENTLY THE COLD SEASON AND IT IS PROBABLY IN THE 90S DURING THE DAY, AND HUMID AS GOD KNOWS! ALSO, I HAVE NEVER LEARNED THE VALUE OF WATER LIKE I HAVE WITHIN THE FIRST FEW HOURS OF BEING HERE. SHOWERS ARE A LUXURY AS IS DRINKING WATER, OF WHICH I THINK I WILL BE SPENDING MOST MY MONEY.
I SEE I AM GOING INTO SO MUCH DETAIL BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN GOING THROUGH MORE THEN I COULD EVER PUT INTO WORDS AND I WANT TO SHARE EVERY BIT OF IT. BUT FOR NOW LET ME TELL YOU WHAT IS TO COME: A TOUR OF ACCRA AND SOME OF THE POOREST AND YET MOST VIBRANT AND BEAUTIFUL TOWNS I HAVE EVER SEEN, A TRIP TO THE BEACH WHERE WE WERE BIG TIME RIPPED OFF (THE CHALLENGE OF AN OBRUNI, WHICH IS THE NAME FOR WHITE PERSON), GOING TO THE AFRICAN CUP!!!!!!!!! (MOST AMAZING EXPIERENCE EVER AND I CANNOT WAIT TO GIVE DETAILS AND PICTURES), GETTING PROPOSED TO BY SEVERAL NIGERIANS, DEALING WITH MOSQUITOS AND EVERY ILLNESS YOU CAN THINK OF, ADJUSTING TO CUTURAL DIFFERENCES, LEARNING THE LANGUAGE AND BASICALLY JUST HAVING THE TIME OF MY LIFE. I HOPE TO GET BACK TO THIS TOMORROW TO FILL YOU IN! I MISS YOU AND LOVE YOU ALL AND I HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SO THAT WHEN I CAN FINALLY CHECK MY EMAIL, I WILL HAVE SOMETHING WAITING FOR ME.

LOVE, ALI

PS. SPELL CHECK DOES NOT WORK EITHER SO EXCUSE ME!!!!!!